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Located off the Côte d’Azur (France), Porquerolles Island offers an idyllic setting where landscapes of exceptional beauty mingle with rich biodiversity. But this jewel of the Mediterranean is a destination that can appeal to nature lovers and art enthusiasts alike, thanks to the presence of the Villa Carmignac, which offers exhibitions and a rich cultural program every year.

In this travel guide, you’ll discover the must-do activities in Porquerolles as well as a selection of the best addresses to make the most of your stay.

This travel guide is produced in collaboration with the Fondation Carmignac. However, I remain totally free to express my opinions and suggestions for activities in this article, which are therefore entirely sincere.

Prepare a stay in Porquerolles

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 How to get there ? By public transport, the easiest way is to get to Toulon station (about 4 hours from Paris). You can then book a Toulon – Porquerolles shuttle (€37 return, 1h15 crossing), or take a cab or TER to Hyères for a shorter crossing (15 minutes, €24 return).

 When to go ? As the main activities take place outdoors, it’s best to go in fine weather.

 How long to stay ? It’s perfectly possible to spend just one day on the island, but you’ll only get a glimpse of it. If you can, plan to spend 2 or 3 days there. Sleeping on Porquerolles will also allow you to discover the island in a different atmosphere in the evening, when the many travelers sleeping on the mainland have left.

 How to get around the island ? While some beaches and points of interest are easily discovered on foot, you’ll need a bike to get to more remote but also quieter and more authentic areas. As some of the paths have a steep gradient, I’d highly recommend choosing an electric bike.

 How much does it cost ? Porquerolles isn’t the most affordable destination. If you go for a day trip, you’ll keep costs down, but if you want to stay on the island, you’ll need to budget between €120 and €400 per night in a hotel, depending on the season. As for restaurants, dishes are available for around €25 / €40 for a menu; count €45 for the rental of an electric mountain bike for the day.

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The history of Porquerolles

Porquerolles is the largest of the three Golden Islands off the coast of Hyères, in the south of France. Its rich and varied history dates back to antiquity.

The island was inhabited by Celts, Ligueres and Phocaeans, as archaeological finds testify. In Antiquity, the Romans left their mark. In the Middle Ages, Porquerolles served as a base for pirates and privateers, exploiting its strategic position in the Mediterranean.

In the 16th century, François I ordered the fortification of the island to protect it against Spanish invasions. It was at this time that the Forts Sainte-Agathe and then Richelieu were built, followed a century later by the Grand and Petit Langoustier forts.

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The Langoustier fort

During the French Revolution, Porquerolles was sold as a national asset and several owners came and went, but it was a Belgian adventurer, François Joseph Fournier, who transformed the island! He bought it at auction in 1912 and gave it as a wedding present to his wife, Sylvia. The Fournier couple encouraged families to live there, building the church and school, planting fruit trees, vines and thousands of trees, and developing villas and hotels…

In 1971, the French state acquired a large part of the island to make it a national park, thus preserving its biodiversity and rare natural heritage. Today, Porquerolles Island is a popular destination for its landscapes, sandy beaches and hiking trails, attracting visitors from all over the world while remaining protected.

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Plan de l’isle de Porquerolles, Source: Gallica / Bibliothèque nationale de France

What to do in Porquerolles ? 5 must-do activities

Wander around the village

Start your discovery of Porquerolles by strolling through the village, which has no shortage of charm with its colorful, flower-filled houses, lively square and numerous bars and restaurants.

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It’s a quick tour, but it’ll give you a good idea of the island’s atmosphere.

Visit Villa Carmignac

Open since 2018, the Villa Carmignac is THE cultural venue on Porquerolles. It houses a 200m2 exhibition space and presents a temporary exhibition every year.

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This year, it features ” The Infinite Woman “, an exhibition exploring female narratives through the works of some sixty renowned artists including Niki de Saint Phalle, Roy Lichtenstein, Kiki Smith,Sandro Botticelli and Laure Prouvost.

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With a capacity deliberately limited to 50 visitors per half-hour, this luminous exhibition can be discovered in exceptional conditions. Another special feature  is that the visit is made barefoot, making the experience of visiting even more personal, you feel at the Villa as if you were at home.

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Marlene Dumas, Glitter Bra

A vast 15-hectare garden surrounds the Villa, with numerous sculptures by contemporary artists. Works of art that resonate with the site and invite you to let go.

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Ed Ruscha
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Ask for the program! 

Every summer, Villa Carmignac organizes a number of events:

  • Open-air film festival
  • Family workshops
  • Full Moon Nights
  • Lunar evenings…

And if you want to take the Villa experience a step further, you’ll find a food truck as well as ” Poisson Ivre “, an excellent gourmet restaurant – see + information below, in the ” Bonnes adresses ” section of this article.

 Villa Carmignac
 Every day, except Mondays, from April 27 to November 3
 April to June and September to November, 10 am to 6 pm
 July and August, 10 am to 7 pm – nocturne Thursdays until 10 pm
 https://www.fondationcarmignac.com/en/la-villa-carmignac/

Swimming

It’s hard to come to Porquerolles without taking a dip in the translucent water that surrounds the island. The deep blue sea is a call to come and cool off, especially when the sun is out.

The easiest to get to are La plage de la Courtade and La plage d’Argent (accessible about 15 min walk from the village) but if you can, I’d advise you to go to La Plage blanche du langoustier, more out of the way but also much less crowded.

You’ll find several beach suggestions in the interactive map accompanying this article.

Cycling around the island

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Porquerolles is about 7 kilometers long, with some steeply sloping areas. To get the most out of it and observe the different landscapes, I strongly recommend renting a bike for a day, preferably an electric mountain bike, which will enable you to take the unpaved paths and get to the high points without wearing yourself out.

Among the places to discover, I recommend :

  • Le Langoustier (to the west of the island) and its two white and black beaches
  • The Brégançonnet cove
  • Gorges du Loup
  • Cap d’Arme lighthouse
  • Calanque de l’Indienne
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Calanque de l’Indienne

Where to rent a bike in Porquerolles ? 

In the village next to the port, several bike rental companies offer their services. Don’t hesitate to go from one to the other, and use the competition to get a small discount. A day’s rental of an electric mountain bike costs €45.

Visit Fort Sainte-Agathe

A ten-minute walk from the village, Fort Sainte-Agathe dominates the island and offers a beautiful view of the surrounding area.

Entrance to the interior of the fort is free, but climbing the tower is not free and, alas, a little uncertain as it’s not always open.

Admiring a sunset

If you’re lucky enough to spend a night on the island, don’t miss out on the spectacle of a sunset. For this, you can head to the Courtade beach or the pebble beach at the end of the rue de l’artisanat – see the interactive map accompanying this article.


Good to know 

There’s only one village, in the center of the island, where you’ll be able to buy food and drink. If you’re going for a walk, take some water and food with you.

In high season, restaurants fill up quickly, it’s advisable to book a table in advance.

Most of the island’s roads are dirt tracks. If you’re visiting the island by bike, it’s best to use a mountain bike, if possible with electric assistance, to get to the areas with the steepest gradients.

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Good addresses in Porquerolles

Where to sleep ? Book your hotel in Porquerolles

The supply of accommodation in Porquerolles is very limited and prices can quickly become prohibitive, especially in high season. I recommend booking your stay several weeks – or even months – in advance to avoid unpleasant surprises.

Enter the dates of your stay in the map below to see the available establishments and their rates:

 

The map above includes affiliate links, meaning that I earn a commission if you book your stay after clicking on one of these links. It doesn’t cost you any more, but it helps me to develop Culturez-vous. Thank you!

During my stay, I went to la Villa Sainte Anne, an ideally located establishment on the main square. The rooms are very clean, the welcome warm and the buffet breakfast varied and copious.

You can also stay at the Les Mèdes hotel, where rooms are equipped with kitchenettes, which can save you money on meals.

Where to eat in Porquerolles ? Restaurant tips

While restaurant prices aren’t cheap in Porquerolles, the food is generally very good, with tasty fish dishes in particular. I particularly recommend :

Au Porquerollais

Located on the main square, this is a human-sized restaurant offering dishes prepared according to arrivals. It’s very fresh and very good, with a warm atmosphere.

7 place d’Armes
 http://www.auporquerollais.com/

L’Escale

You’re bound to pass this restaurant at the entrance to the town, where you can have lunch facing the port. It’s not a tourist trap, however, and the food is really very good. The menu is complemented by a dish of the day that changes according to arrivals.

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 2 rue de la Ferme
 https://www.instagram.com/l.escale_porquerolles/

L’Orangeraie

Right next door to L’Escale, this bar-restaurant has a young, relaxed atmosphere, and is just as much a place to eat as to have a drink with friends. Guaranteed atmosphere on soccer match nights!

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 Place d’Armes
 https://www.instagram.com/orangeraieporquerolles/

Le Poisson-Ivre

Le Poisson-Ivre is Villa Carmignac’s restaurant, and my favorite place to eat on the island. The dishes are worthy of a gourmet restaurant, refined and full of flavor, with sometimes surprising pairings (like a chocolate mousse with peas) that work perfectly.

You can also eat in the shade of the trees, with the impression of being in the middle of the forest, an enchanting moment!

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Please note: this restaurant fills up very quickly, so it’s not possible to book in advance, but you can book in the morning for lunch when you arrive at the Villa.

 Villa Carmignac
 https://lacourtade.com/restauration

The Poisson-Ivre food truck version

Still on the grounds of Villa Carmignac, the Poisson Ivre food truck offers a quick, gourmet break. In warm weather, don’t hesitate to try their delicious ice creams!

 Villa Carmignac
 https://lacourtade.com/restauration

For ice cream lovers

Crack open a cone at Cocofrio, an excellent artisanal ice cream parlour with many flavour choices.

For wine lovers

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Taste Domaine de la Courtade’s organic wines produced on the island. You can visit the vineyards or have a tasting directly at the Domaine, whose entrance is located on the Villa Carmignac estate, or simply order a glass or bottle in the island’s many restaurants, which have it on their menus. More information at https://lacourtade.com/

Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health. Drink in moderation.


Porquerolles interactive map

Find all the addresses mentioned in this article, as well as a selection of the most beautiful photo spots, on this interactive map.

 Tip : use the menu on the right to filter the points of interest that interest you.

Bon voyage !


All photographs illustrating this article are the property of Culturez-vous / Antoine Vitek and may not be used without written permission.

This travel guide is produced in commercial collaboration with the Fondation Carmignac. However, I remain totally free to express my opinions and suggestions for activities mentioned in this article are therefore entirely sincere.

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